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The Business of Fashion has gained a global following as an essential daily resource for fashion creatives, executives and entrepreneurs in over 200 countries. It is frequently described as “indispensable,” “required reading” and “an addiction.”
The Business of Fashion has gained a global following as an essential daily resource for fashion creatives, executives and entrepreneurs in over 200 countries. It is frequently described as “indispensable,” “required reading” and “an addiction.”
Emily Oberg is a fashion tastemaker and entrepreneur, known for creating the brand Sporty & Rich. She started her career in media at Complex in New York and built her brand from an Instagram mood board into a multi-million-dollar business, emphasizing lifestyle and community.
Emily Oberg is a fashion tastemaker and entrepreneur, known for creating the brand Sporty & Rich. She started her career in media at Complex in New York and built her brand from an Instagram mood board into a multi-million-dollar business, emphasizing lifestyle and community.
Giancarlo Giammetti is a renowned fashion entrepreneur and close partner of Valentino Garavani, known for co-founding the Fondazione Valentino Garavani e Giancarlo Giammetti to preserve their legacy and promote creativity in fashion.
Giancarlo Giammetti is a renowned fashion entrepreneur and close partner of Valentino Garavani, known for co-founding the Fondazione Valentino Garavani e Giancarlo Giammetti to preserve their legacy and promote creativity in fashion.
Daniela Morosini is a Senior Beauty Correspondent for The Business of Fashion, specializing in the beauty sector, analyzing industry trends, and providing insights into consumer behavior and market dynamics.
Daniela Morosini is a Senior Beauty Correspondent for The Business of Fashion, specializing in the beauty sector, analyzing industry trends, and providing insights into consumer behavior and market dynamics.
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The Business of Fashion has built a global following as an essential daily resource for fashion creatives, business professionals and entrepreneurs all over the world. It is frequently described as "indispensable," "required reading" and "an addiction."
Subscribe to our channel to watch exclusive, in-depth, and fascinating insights into the world of fashion.
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Nike has been synonymous with sports for decades, but that cultural and commercial cachet has mostly been driven by male athletes like Michael Jordan and Tiger Woods (Serena Williams being a prominent exception). As a result, despite substantial sales, Nike historically struggled to resonate authentically with women, and has at times faced pointed criticism from female athletes, employees and consumers.
That appears to be changing. Nikes So Win campaign, which launched with the brands first Super Bowl ad in decades, centres entirely on female athletes. Aja Wilsons sneaker release was a smash, and a new brand with Kim Kardashians Skims will be out soon. The head of Nike Womens now leads the entire Nike brand.
Key Insights:
Nikes current momentum comes after past attempts to boost its womens business, including a failed 2005 campaign involving catalogs and dedicated stores. Defections by prominent female athletes to rivals, and media investigations into gender equity issues prompted Nike to rethink its approach starting about five years ago. Sheena explains, "They started a think tank with women athletes and women consumers, and what they heard was that women wanted more from the company. This marked the beginning of initiatives driven by women's opinions and taking more women into leadership roles to guide efforts that would genuinely resonate with women."
Featuring her first signature shoe, the Nike A'One, WNBA star Aja Wilsons campaign was the latest and biggest in a string of successful marketing and product initiatives targeting women, including maternity lines, leak-proof activewear, and technical collaborations like supporting Kenyan runner Faith Kipyegons quest to break the four-minute mile. Sheena emphasises, "Nikes investing end-to-end. They're not just investing in her wearing the logo at a race somedaythey're actually supporting her personal goals."
The recent appointment of Amy Montagne as Nikes first female brand president symbolises substantial internal change. Sheena highlights, "Having a woman lead as Nike brand president is another way to activate that lever and get after women's." But consistency remains crucial for lasting success. Sheena stresses, They've taken their swing before, but it's like the follow-through that counts. Consistency will be the most important thing. If they dont keep doing all the right things, it could easily shift back.
Nike has been synonymous with sports for decades, but that cultural and commercial cachet has mostly been driven by male athletes like Michael Jordan and Tiger Woods (Serena Williams being a prominent exception). As a result, despite substantial sales, Nike historically struggled to resonate authentically with women, and has at times faced pointed criticism from female athletes, employees and consumers.
That appears to be changing. Nikes So Win campaign, which launched with the brands first Super Bowl ad in decades, centres entirely on female athletes. Aja Wilsons sneaker release was a smash, and a new brand with Kim Kardashians Skims will be out soon. The head of Nike Womens now leads the entire Nike brand.
Key Insights:
Nikes current momentum comes after past attempts to boost its womens business, including a failed 2005 campaign involving catalogs and dedicated stores. Defections by prominent female athletes to rivals, and media investigations into gender equity issues prompted Nike to rethink its approach starting about five years ago. Sheena explains, "They started a think tank with women athletes and women consumers, and what they heard was that women wanted more from the company. This marked the beginning of initiatives driven by women's opinions and taking more women into leadership roles to guide efforts that would genuinely resonate with women."
Featuring her first signature shoe, the Nike A'One, WNBA star Aja Wilsons campaign was the latest and biggest in a string of successful marketing and product initiatives targeting women, including maternity lines, leak-proof activewear, and technical collaborations like supporting Kenyan runner Faith Kipyegons quest to break the four-minute mile. Sheena emphasises, "Nikes investing end-to-end. They're not just investing in her wearing the logo at a race somedaythey're actually supporting her personal goals."
The recent appointment of Amy Montagne as Nikes first female brand president symbolises substantial internal change. Sheena highlights, "Having a woman lead as Nike brand president is another way to activate that lever and get after women's." But consistency remains crucial for lasting success. Sheena stresses, They've taken their swing before, but it's like the follow-through that counts. Consistency will be the most important thing. If they dont keep doing all the right things, it could easily shift back.
Emily grew up far away from the fashion world in Calgary, Canada. After moving to New York for a role at the media company Complex, Oberg quickly built her profile as a tastemaker in the streetwear scene.
But eventually, she got the entrepreneurial itch and leveraged her experience to turn Sporty & Rich, which started as a mood board on Instagram, into a multi-million-dollar brand with a dedicated community following.
"I think people want to be part of anything that's aspirational. Our sweatshirts are $150, it's not like we're selling a $10,000 handbag, but I think that shirt represents the lifestyle in the world that we have built."
In conversation with BoF founder Imran Amed, Oberg reflects on her unconventional path, her strategic business choices, and the significance of creating an aspirational lifestyle through her brand.
Key Insights:
Sporty & Rich started as an Instagram mood board where Oberg began experimenting with different products like magazines, hats, and crewnecks to gauge interest for a brand. To scale without raising capital, Oberg turned to pre-orders. "If we didn't do pre-order, we couldn't have run a business," she says. “We did a crewneck and it made $600,000 in a day,” she says of a drop during the pandemic. “That was a big moment for us because we were like, 'Wow, we can really scale this with just one product.'”
Oberg thrives in uncertainty and credits her ability to adapt as one key to her success. “I think I like risk because where it scares most people, it kind of excites me and it gives me that feeling of being uncomfortable – I really like that feeling,” she explains. Reflecting on her experience moving to LA and launching Sporty & Rich, she adds: “I was excited and I had a trust in myself that I would always figure it out. So I think when you have that, you know that you'll be okay and there's like nothing to really worry about.”
Oberg is candid about her business blind spots.She surrounds herself with experts in operations, production, and finance to keep the business growing. “I don’t know how to do everything,” she says. “I just know what I like and what I want things to look like.”
Sporty & Rich isn’t just about clothing. Their New York flagship includes a café, spa, — and soon, a gym — offering a full expression of the brand’s values. “It's not necessarily about the monetary things and money and the rich lifestyle. That's a part of it but I think there’s this greater sense of living a full life and I think anything that's aspirational people want to be part of,” she says. “Our sweatshirts are $150; it’s not like we’re selling a $10,000 handbag, but I think that shirt represents the lifestyle and the world that we’ve built.”
Emily grew up far away from the fashion world in Calgary, Canada. After moving to New York for a role at the media company Complex, Oberg quickly built her profile as a tastemaker in the streetwear scene.
But eventually, she got the entrepreneurial itch and leveraged her experience to turn Sporty & Rich, which started as a mood board on Instagram, into a multi-million-dollar brand with a dedicated community following.
"I think people want to be part of anything that's aspirational. Our sweatshirts are $150, it's not like we're selling a $10,000 handbag, but I think that shirt represents the lifestyle in the world that we have built."
In conversation with BoF founder Imran Amed, Oberg reflects on her unconventional path, her strategic business choices, and the significance of creating an aspirational lifestyle through her brand.
Key Insights:
Sporty & Rich started as an Instagram mood board where Oberg began experimenting with different products like magazines, hats, and crewnecks to gauge interest for a brand. To scale without raising capital, Oberg turned to pre-orders. "If we didn't do pre-order, we couldn't have run a business," she says. “We did a crewneck and it made $600,000 in a day,” she says of a drop during the pandemic. “That was a big moment for us because we were like, 'Wow, we can really scale this with just one product.'”
Oberg thrives in uncertainty and credits her ability to adapt as one key to her success. “I think I like risk because where it scares most people, it kind of excites me and it gives me that feeling of being uncomfortable – I really like that feeling,” she explains. Reflecting on her experience moving to LA and launching Sporty & Rich, she adds: “I was excited and I had a trust in myself that I would always figure it out. So I think when you have that, you know that you'll be okay and there's like nothing to really worry about.”
Oberg is candid about her business blind spots.She surrounds herself with experts in operations, production, and finance to keep the business growing. “I don’t know how to do everything,” she says. “I just know what I like and what I want things to look like.”
Sporty & Rich isn’t just about clothing. Their New York flagship includes a café, spa, — and soon, a gym — offering a full expression of the brand’s values. “It's not necessarily about the monetary things and money and the rich lifestyle. That's a part of it but I think there’s this greater sense of living a full life and I think anything that's aspirational people want to be part of,” she says. “Our sweatshirts are $150; it’s not like we’re selling a $10,000 handbag, but I think that shirt represents the lifestyle and the world that we’ve built.”
Bieber, a celebrity and influential beauty figure with a strong Gen-Z following, launched Rhode just three years ago, quickly distinguishing the brand with minimalist product offerings closely tied to Bieber's personal aesthetic. She just sold to E.l.f. Beauty for $1 billion, even as rival celebrity beauty brands struggle to grow sales or attract buyers.
Priya Rao, executive editor at The Business of Beauty at BoF, joins the Business of Fashion's Brian Baskin and Sheena Butler-Young to discuss how Rhode distinguished itself in a crowded celebrity beauty landscape, why E.l.f. Beauty saw strategic value in the acquisition, and what this landmark deal signals about the evolving beauty industry.
Key Insights:
Rhode’s clean, minimal brand aesthetic also mirrors e.l.f.’s broader mission, albeit at a different price point. "There’s something about Rhode’s branding that really makes sense with what E.l.f. already does. They both want to be accessible but aspirational," Rao notes. Like Rhode, "E.l.f. has always had a really good sense of what young people want," says Rao.
The success of Rhode demonstrates that differentiated, clearly communicated value propositions continue to resonate strongly in the beauty market. "From the consumer side, this just shows that the right brand can find the right price at any time, as long as you're able to point and show you offer something different," explains Rao.
Rao highlights how rare it is for a celebrity beauty brand to resonate beyond hype. "Most celebrity beauty brands are not succeeding at this level," she says. Rhode’s limited and focused product assortment have also contributed to its success. "She's not launching everything under the sun," says Rao. "She’s focusing on what she knows and what her audience connects with, and that’s why it’s working."
The acquisition isn't just about short-term gain – E.l.f. sees lasting value. "This isn't a flash in the pan for them," says Rao. "They’re betting on Rhode being a long-term growth engine, not just a trendy pick-up."
Bieber, a celebrity and influential beauty figure with a strong Gen-Z following, launched Rhode just three years ago, quickly distinguishing the brand with minimalist product offerings closely tied to Bieber's personal aesthetic. She just sold to E.l.f. Beauty for $1 billion, even as rival celebrity beauty brands struggle to grow sales or attract buyers.
Priya Rao, executive editor at The Business of Beauty at BoF, joins the Business of Fashion's Brian Baskin and Sheena Butler-Young to discuss how Rhode distinguished itself in a crowded celebrity beauty landscape, why E.l.f. Beauty saw strategic value in the acquisition, and what this landmark deal signals about the evolving beauty industry.
Key Insights:
Rhode’s clean, minimal brand aesthetic also mirrors e.l.f.’s broader mission, albeit at a different price point. "There’s something about Rhode’s branding that really makes sense with what E.l.f. already does. They both want to be accessible but aspirational," Rao notes. Like Rhode, "E.l.f. has always had a really good sense of what young people want," says Rao.
The success of Rhode demonstrates that differentiated, clearly communicated value propositions continue to resonate strongly in the beauty market. "From the consumer side, this just shows that the right brand can find the right price at any time, as long as you're able to point and show you offer something different," explains Rao.
Rao highlights how rare it is for a celebrity beauty brand to resonate beyond hype. "Most celebrity beauty brands are not succeeding at this level," she says. Rhode’s limited and focused product assortment have also contributed to its success. "She's not launching everything under the sun," says Rao. "She’s focusing on what she knows and what her audience connects with, and that’s why it’s working."
The acquisition isn't just about short-term gain – E.l.f. sees lasting value. "This isn't a flash in the pan for them," says Rao. "They’re betting on Rhode being a long-term growth engine, not just a trendy pick-up."
Giancarlo Giammetti met Valentino Garavani by chance on July 31, 1960, setting in motion one of fashion’s most enduring — and most successful — creative partnerships. Together, they transformed Valentino into a global fashion powerhouse, celebrated for its elegance, craftsmanship, and cultural influence.
In 2016, Giammetti co-founded the Fondazione Valentino Garavani e Giancarlo Giammetti to preserve their remarkable legacy, promote creativity, and foster charitable and educational initiatives.
This week in Rome, BoF founder and CEO Imran Amed had the honour of sitting down with Mr Giammetti at PM23, the newly opened home of the foundation, located right next to the Valentino headquarters where their journey together first began.
In this exclusive interview, Mr Giammetti reflects on the founding days of Valentino, the importance of protecting creativity in a fashion market that prioritises commercialisation, and why it is critical for the industry to support future generations of designers who are overlooked by a fashion system under pressure.
“This continuous change of people, using people to cover jobs … it makes a big confusion. None of them really becomes a part of the legacy of the company. That’s what is a big problem today,” says Giammetti.
Key Insights:
Giammetti highlights the strength of his decades-long partnership with Valentino, emphasising their deep personal and professional connection. “We grew up related so much to each other that we cannot be separate,” he says. “Even when we had some rupture in our private life, after a while, we kept our family. That’s why we have such a big family – because all of our friends became friends of our family with us.”
Giammetti expresses concern about the fashion industry's current state, noting the disconnect between creative integrity and business pressures. "Designers have become their own stars, they have their own style, and they don’t want to really become a witness to the work of the companies where they are hired to prolong life – they want to work for themselves," he says. "It’s not just negative, it’s offensive."
Giammetti believes in preserving the heritage of fashion through new means. “I hate fashion museums. I think that to see all the mannequins like Madame Tussauds look really like wax things. I don’t think there is a life inside,” he says. “With digital work, you have to work with that to project your legacy in a different way.”
Giving advice to aspiring creatives, Giammetti encourages young designers to remain true to themselves and avoid distractions. "Be yourself. Don't get distracted. You have to believe in yourself and do what you want."
Giancarlo Giammetti met Valentino Garavani by chance on July 31, 1960, setting in motion one of fashion’s most enduring — and most successful — creative partnerships. Together, they transformed Valentino into a global fashion powerhouse, celebrated for its elegance, craftsmanship, and cultural influence.
In 2016, Giammetti co-founded the Fondazione Valentino Garavani e Giancarlo Giammetti to preserve their remarkable legacy, promote creativity, and foster charitable and educational initiatives.
This week in Rome, BoF founder and CEO Imran Amed had the honour of sitting down with Mr Giammetti at PM23, the newly opened home of the foundation, located right next to the Valentino headquarters where their journey together first began.
In this exclusive interview, Mr Giammetti reflects on the founding days of Valentino, the importance of protecting creativity in a fashion market that prioritises commercialisation, and why it is critical for the industry to support future generations of designers who are overlooked by a fashion system under pressure.
“This continuous change of people, using people to cover jobs … it makes a big confusion. None of them really becomes a part of the legacy of the company. That’s what is a big problem today,” says Giammetti.
Key Insights:
Giammetti highlights the strength of his decades-long partnership with Valentino, emphasising their deep personal and professional connection. “We grew up related so much to each other that we cannot be separate,” he says. “Even when we had some rupture in our private life, after a while, we kept our family. That’s why we have such a big family – because all of our friends became friends of our family with us.”
Giammetti expresses concern about the fashion industry's current state, noting the disconnect between creative integrity and business pressures. "Designers have become their own stars, they have their own style, and they don’t want to really become a witness to the work of the companies where they are hired to prolong life – they want to work for themselves," he says. "It’s not just negative, it’s offensive."
Giammetti believes in preserving the heritage of fashion through new means. “I hate fashion museums. I think that to see all the mannequins like Madame Tussauds look really like wax things. I don’t think there is a life inside,” he says. “With digital work, you have to work with that to project your legacy in a different way.”
Giving advice to aspiring creatives, Giammetti encourages young designers to remain true to themselves and avoid distractions. "Be yourself. Don't get distracted. You have to believe in yourself and do what you want."
The beauty sector historically thrived during economic downturns, earning a recession-proof reputation encapsulated in the “lipstick index.” However, recent earnings from major beauty conglomerates like Estée Lauder, L'Oréal, Coty and Shiseido indicate that beauty’s resilience is being tested. Sales are declining, layoffs are coming and consumer habits appear to be shifting dramatically.
BoF Senior Beauty Correspondent Daniela Morosini joins Brian Baskin and Sheena Butler-Young on The Debrief to examine what's driving this slowdown and how the industry is adapting.
Key Insights:
Traditionally, small luxury purchases like beauty products thrived during economic pressure. But the landscape has changed. “Prices have really, really grown, and there's just so much more to choose from,” says Morosini. The combination of escalating prices, excessive market saturation, and a shift to online platforms like Amazon and TikTok has diluted the impact of small luxury indulgences. "It's really hard to get seen. So even if you have a more affordable product that more people can afford, you still have to get people to come and look at you and come and interact with you," she adds.
Brands once benefited from consistent replenishment and customer loyalty. Today, consumers are more transient, constantly seeking newness. “Customers seem to have this insatiable appetite for more products and more newness,” Morosini notes. But after years of heavy consumption, shoppers are starting to tire of new for the sake of new. “Something that’s really starting to come into focus is that, specifically, American middle-class shoppers are starting to buy fewer beauty products – and that’s having a big knock-on effect.”
As consumers become more price-sensitive, brands need to redefine value beyond just pricing. Morosini suggests brands return to basics, emphasising their core strengths and fostering loyalty through consistent, quality products rather than frequent launches. "People are really, really attuned to perceptions of value," says Morosini.
The beauty sector historically thrived during economic downturns, earning a recession-proof reputation encapsulated in the “lipstick index.” However, recent earnings from major beauty conglomerates like Estée Lauder, L'Oréal, Coty and Shiseido indicate that beauty’s resilience is being tested. Sales are declining, layoffs are coming and consumer habits appear to be shifting dramatically.
BoF Senior Beauty Correspondent Daniela Morosini joins Brian Baskin and Sheena Butler-Young on The Debrief to examine what's driving this slowdown and how the industry is adapting.
Key Insights:
Traditionally, small luxury purchases like beauty products thrived during economic pressure. But the landscape has changed. “Prices have really, really grown, and there's just so much more to choose from,” says Morosini. The combination of escalating prices, excessive market saturation, and a shift to online platforms like Amazon and TikTok has diluted the impact of small luxury indulgences. "It's really hard to get seen. So even if you have a more affordable product that more people can afford, you still have to get people to come and look at you and come and interact with you," she adds.
Brands once benefited from consistent replenishment and customer loyalty. Today, consumers are more transient, constantly seeking newness. “Customers seem to have this insatiable appetite for more products and more newness,” Morosini notes. But after years of heavy consumption, shoppers are starting to tire of new for the sake of new. “Something that’s really starting to come into focus is that, specifically, American middle-class shoppers are starting to buy fewer beauty products – and that’s having a big knock-on effect.”
As consumers become more price-sensitive, brands need to redefine value beyond just pricing. Morosini suggests brands return to basics, emphasising their core strengths and fostering loyalty through consistent, quality products rather than frequent launches. "People are really, really attuned to perceptions of value," says Morosini.
