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Since 2002 Alpinist has striven to push creative boundaries with everything we do, from award-winning climbing journalism and creative writing to photography and art. Now, with the Alpinist podcast, we aim to extend our conversations with climbers and community members into interviews and oral histories that will entertain and educate our listeners with everything from dramatic and humorous adventure tales to in-depth discussions of the most significant issues in the climbing world today. More at alpinist.com/podcast
Since 2002 Alpinist has striven to push creative boundaries with everything we do, from award-winning climbing journalism and creative writing to photography and art. Now, with the Alpinist podcast, we aim to extend our conversations with climbers and community members into interviews and oral histories that will entertain and educate our listeners with everything from dramatic and humorous adventure tales to in-depth discussions of the most significant issues in the climbing world today. More at alpinist.com/podcast
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Here's a quick summary of the last 3 episodes on Alpinist.
Hosts
Abbey Collins
Previous Guests
Dawn Hollis
Dawn Hollis has been passionate about mountains since childhood, growing up in Suffolk, UK. Her fascination was ignited during a family trip to Wales at age nine. With a background in research, she focuses on human relationships with mountains and their historical perceptions. Her book, 'Mountains Before Mountaineering', is based on her PhD research and challenges the notion that mountains were primarily feared before the eighteenth century. Hollis's work highlights the evolving appreciation for mountains throughout history.
Dawn Hollis has been passionate about mountains since childhood, growing up in Suffolk, UK. Her fascination was ignited during a family trip to Wales at age nine. With a background in research, she focuses on human relationships with mountains and their historical perceptions. Her book, 'Mountains Before Mountaineering', is based on her PhD research and challenges the notion that mountains were primarily feared before the eighteenth century. Hollis's work highlights the evolving appreciation for mountains throughout history.
Kai Lightner
Kai Lightner is a competitive climber who began climbing at the age of six. He gained national recognition by winning his first national title at the age of ten. Lightner has been featured in Alpinist magazine, where he wrote about his experiences learning to trad climb from Doug Robinson. He is the founder of the nonprofit organization Climbing For Change, which focuses on making climbing more diverse and inclusive. Lightner has also traveled to Jamaica to help build the country's first climbing wall and has openly discussed his struggles with eating and bodyweight as a competition climber. In the past year, he achieved a personal milestone by climbing his first 5.15.
Kai Lightner is a competitive climber who began climbing at the age of six. He gained national recognition by winning his first national title at the age of ten. Lightner has been featured in Alpinist magazine, where he wrote about his experiences learning to trad climb from Doug Robinson. He is the founder of the nonprofit organization Climbing For Change, which focuses on making climbing more diverse and inclusive. Lightner has also traveled to Jamaica to help build the country's first climbing wall and has openly discussed his struggles with eating and bodyweight as a competition climber. In the past year, he achieved a personal milestone by climbing his first 5.15.
Babsi Zangerl
Babsi Zangerl is an accomplished climber from Austria, known for her significant achievements in both bouldering and sport climbing. She has been climbing for over two decades, starting her journey in a climbing gym as a teenager. Zangerl made history by flashing a route on El Capitan, a feat that had never been accomplished before. Throughout her career, she has climbed many iconic routes in Yosemite and has partnered with notable climbers, including Jacopo Larcher. Her experiences include climbing the North Face of the Eiger and freeing Eternal Flame on Pakistan's Nameless Tower. Zangerl's evolution as a climber reflects her dedication and passion for the sport.
Babsi Zangerl is an accomplished climber from Austria, known for her significant achievements in both bouldering and sport climbing. She has been climbing for over two decades, starting her journey in a climbing gym as a teenager. Zangerl made history by flashing a route on El Capitan, a feat that had never been accomplished before. Throughout her career, she has climbed many iconic routes in Yosemite and has partnered with notable climbers, including Jacopo Larcher. Her experiences include climbing the North Face of the Eiger and freeing Eternal Flame on Pakistan's Nameless Tower. Zangerl's evolution as a climber reflects her dedication and passion for the sport.
Jacopo Larcher
Jacopo Larcher is an Italian climber recognized for his expertise in both sport climbing and traditional climbing. He has partnered with Babsi Zangerl on several significant climbs, including their ascent of Freerider on El Capitan, where he came close to flashing the route. Larcher has a strong background in climbing, having tackled many challenging routes in various locations, including Yosemite and the Alps. His contributions to the climbing community include writing about his experiences, such as the ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower, which was featured in Alpinist Magazine.
Jacopo Larcher is an Italian climber recognized for his expertise in both sport climbing and traditional climbing. He has partnered with Babsi Zangerl on several significant climbs, including their ascent of Freerider on El Capitan, where he came close to flashing the route. Larcher has a strong background in climbing, having tackled many challenging routes in various locations, including Yosemite and the Alps. His contributions to the climbing community include writing about his experiences, such as the ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower, which was featured in Alpinist Magazine.
Topics Discussed
mountains
relationships
history
phd research
appreciation
Dawn Hollis
Kai Lightner
climbing
Climbing For Change
diversity
inclusivity
community
forgiveness
5.15 climbing
trad climbing
Babsi Zangerl
El Capitan
Freerider
Yosemite
bouldering
North Face of the Eiger
Eternal Flame
Nameless Tower
Dawn Hollis has been obsessed with mountains since she was a small child growing up in Suffolk, which she describes as being a really flat part of the UK. Her first glimpse of more elevated landscapes came at age nine on a family trip to Wales. The trip sparked a lifelong passion for being in, and studying the history of, these wild places. Later, Hollis had a school teacher who had climbed Everest, and further encouraged her love of mountains.
As an adult, Hollis found a niche in researching humans relationships to mountains and how it has changed over time. Her book Mountains Before Mountaineering draws on years of PhD research, and calls into question common beliefs about how peaks were viewed before the eighteenth century.
In this episode, Hollis talks about the challenges shes encountered as she upended the belief that mountains were generally feared or avoided during this time. She says our appreciation for mountains pre-dates the modern eraeven if historical texts theorize otherwiseand continues to evolve to this day.
Dawn Hollis has been obsessed with mountains since she was a small child growing up in Suffolk, which she describes as being a really flat part of the UK. Her first glimpse of more elevated landscapes came at age nine on a family trip to Wales. The trip sparked a lifelong passion for being in, and studying the history of, these wild places. Later, Hollis had a school teacher who had climbed Everest, and further encouraged her love of mountains.
As an adult, Hollis found a niche in researching humans relationships to mountains and how it has changed over time. Her book Mountains Before Mountaineering draws on years of PhD research, and calls into question common beliefs about how peaks were viewed before the eighteenth century.
In this episode, Hollis talks about the challenges shes encountered as she upended the belief that mountains were generally feared or avoided during this time. She says our appreciation for mountains pre-dates the modern eraeven if historical texts theorize otherwiseand continues to evolve to this day.
Kai LightnerclimbingClimbing For Changediversityinclusivitycommunityforgiveness5.15 climbingtrad climbing
Kai Lightner is no stranger to the spotlight—or to this magazine. He’s been climbing since he was six, when he joined the climbing team at a gym in North Carolina. Four years later Lightner won his first national title, and the wins just kept coming.
In 2016, while still in high school, Lightner wrote an essay for Alpinist 55 about learning how to trad climb from Doug Robinson. A few years later, as a sophomore in college, he appeared on this podcast, in conversation with Paula LaRochelle. He had recently taken a step back from climbing and would soon found the nonprofit organization Climbing For Change.
A lot has happened in Lightner’s life since that last conversation. He spoke up about his struggles with eating and bodyweight as a competition climber, opening up a bigger conversation. Through Climbing for Change, he’s been at the forefront of initiatives aimed at making climbing more diverse and inclusive. He traveled to Jamaica and helped build the country’s first climbing wall. Lightner even tried trad climbing again, though he says it’s still not really his thing.
And, last year, Lightner climbed his first 5.15.
In this episode, Lightner discusses the last six years, reflects on the importance of community and connection and considers the value of forgiveness.
Kai Lightner is no stranger to the spotlight—or to this magazine. He’s been climbing since he was six, when he joined the climbing team at a gym in North Carolina. Four years later Lightner won his first national title, and the wins just kept coming.
In 2016, while still in high school, Lightner wrote an essay for Alpinist 55 about learning how to trad climb from Doug Robinson. A few years later, as a sophomore in college, he appeared on this podcast, in conversation with Paula LaRochelle. He had recently taken a step back from climbing and would soon found the nonprofit organization Climbing For Change.
A lot has happened in Lightner’s life since that last conversation. He spoke up about his struggles with eating and bodyweight as a competition climber, opening up a bigger conversation. Through Climbing for Change, he’s been at the forefront of initiatives aimed at making climbing more diverse and inclusive. He traveled to Jamaica and helped build the country’s first climbing wall. Lightner even tried trad climbing again, though he says it’s still not really his thing.
And, last year, Lightner climbed his first 5.15.
In this episode, Lightner discusses the last six years, reflects on the importance of community and connection and considers the value of forgiveness.
Babsi Zangerl on Learning, Growing and Flashing El Cap
Hosts
Hosts of this podcast episode
Abbey Collins
Guests
Guests of this podcast episode
Babsi ZangerlJacopo Larcher
Keywords
Keywords of this podcast episode
Babsi ZangerlEl CapitanclimbingFreeriderYosemiteboulderingNorth Face of the EigerEternal FlameNameless Tower
Last year, Babsi Zangerl did something no one has ever done before—she flashed a route on El Capitan. Thousands of feet of hard climbing with no falls. Her partner, Jacopo Larcher, came really close, taking just one fall during their ascent of Freerider.
Zangerl has been a climber for over two decades, since she was a teenager at a climbing gym in Austria. But what, and how, she climbs has evolved over that time—she spent her early years as a professional boulderer.
Zangerl first visited Yosemite fifteen years ago with her friend Hansjörg Auer. She was getting more serious about ropes after sustaining a serious back injury while bouldering. Since that first trip in 2010, Zangerl has returned with Larcher to free climb many of the valley’s classic routes, including Zodiac, Magic Mushroom and the Nose.
In 2018 the pair climbed the North Face of the Eiger. In 2022 they freed Eternal Flame on Pakistan’s Nameless Tower, a trip Larcher wrote about in Alpinist 82. And their list of accomplishments just keeps growing.
In this episode, Zangerl talks about the beginnings of her climbing career in Austria, her partnership with Larcher, learning the ropes from Hansjörg Auer and much more.
Last year, Babsi Zangerl did something no one has ever done before—she flashed a route on El Capitan. Thousands of feet of hard climbing with no falls. Her partner, Jacopo Larcher, came really close, taking just one fall during their ascent of Freerider.
Zangerl has been a climber for over two decades, since she was a teenager at a climbing gym in Austria. But what, and how, she climbs has evolved over that time—she spent her early years as a professional boulderer.
Zangerl first visited Yosemite fifteen years ago with her friend Hansjörg Auer. She was getting more serious about ropes after sustaining a serious back injury while bouldering. Since that first trip in 2010, Zangerl has returned with Larcher to free climb many of the valley’s classic routes, including Zodiac, Magic Mushroom and the Nose.
In 2018 the pair climbed the North Face of the Eiger. In 2022 they freed Eternal Flame on Pakistan’s Nameless Tower, a trip Larcher wrote about in Alpinist 82. And their list of accomplishments just keeps growing.
In this episode, Zangerl talks about the beginnings of her climbing career in Austria, her partnership with Larcher, learning the ropes from Hansjörg Auer and much more.
